At once wearable and provocative, New York Fashion Week’s Spring 2018 collections delivered a lineup of memorable hair and makeup moments that were heavy on personality. Placing individuality above prescribed, hard-and-fast trends, inspired model castings saw the runways blossom with more diversity than ever before—that meant women of all ages, backgrounds, and sizes welcome, including plus-size model and social media sensation Jordyn Woods, who took her first walk at New York Fashion Week by way of Chromat, and one memorable mother-to-be at Eckhaus Latta. That real-world refresh gave rise to trends both playful and practical, melding a new I-woke-up-like-this ease with a more overt riff on glamour. Here, six subtle yet striking notes to take from this week’s shows.

1. Extreme Long Hair Is About to Make a Comeback

While abbreviated bobs continued to rule the streets outside the shows, with their sleek rush of effortlessness, one major New York runway saw the return of hip-length hair: At Michael Kors, ’90s supermodel Kirsty Hume was a case study in the merits of center-parted peroxide. Not one to be outdone—even by a cadre of beach-bound Rapunzels—Nicki Minaj brought the knee-reaching trend front row, finishing off the week with a cascade of endless blonde at Marc Jacobs.

2. Individuality Rules When It Comes to Dramatic Eyeliner

Eye-level statements took a customizable turn, with onyx-edged pops of pastel, gaze-framing “fingerprint” smudges, and rounded-out, glittering wings. At Marc Jacobs, makeup artist Diane Kendal took the personalization one step further, sketching unique takes on the ’60s cat-eye, according to each model’s lash line.

3. It’s Time to Think Pink

While millennial pink is always welcome, Spring 2018 shows traded up for unprecedented brushings with the prettiest hue. Model Stella Lucia made a splash at Alexander Wang, having traded her blanched lengths for a “rose quartz” dye job that melded lavender and petal pink for a crystalline take on the shade. Meanwhile, a similarly off-kilter pastel hue was painted on lips at Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s show, while Brock Collection redefined the new romantic with an unexpected rimming of blush-toned shadow on lids.

4. Say It With Hair Accessories

From low-slung scrunchies at Mansur Gavriel to exaggerated bows at Delpozo, hair accessories were artfully reimagined and anything but shy. Fenty x Puma found head-turning reflective highlighter accompanied by ponytails encased in winding neon twine—a feat of athletic futurism the original BadGal herself wore for her runway bow.

5. Body Positivity—and Size Diversity—Is Here to Stay on the Runways

At Chromat, a high bar was set for inclusivity, with curvy silhouettes in every proportion—Jordyn Woods, Denise Bidot, and Sabina Karlsson among them—showing off the brand’s body-conscious pieces. The most notable accessory? A set of anti-chafing thigh bands, which mimicked a stocking-top while working to reduce friction (not to mention dispelling the notion of a mandatory thigh gap on the runway). And because unprecedented casting is the name of the new game, Eckhaus Latta broke the mold by sending a pregnant Maia Ruth Lee—due next month—down the runway, her baby bump on highly stylish display.

6. The New Red Lip Is a Game-Changer

At Helmut Lang, a twisted sister to the classic red lip was among the week’s most thrilling beauty moments. Rather than a single shade, mouths were painted a fetishistic ombré that gave way from a ripe cherry center to merlot at the outer corners.