At once wearable and provocative, New York Fashion Week’s Spring 2018 collections delivered a lineup of memorable hair and makeup moments that were heavy on personality. Placing individuality above prescribed, hard-and-fast trends, inspired model castings saw the runways blossom with more diversity than ever before—that meant women of all ages, backgrounds, and sizes welcome, including plus-size model and social media sensation Jordyn Woods, who took her first walk at New York Fashion Week by way of Chromat, and one memorable mother-to-be at Eckhaus Latta. That real-world refresh gave rise to trends both playful and practical, melding a new I-woke-up-like-this ease with a more overt riff on glamour. Here, six subtle yet striking notes to take from this week’s shows.
- Extreme Long Hair Is About to Make a Comeback
While abbreviated bobs continued to rule the streets outside the shows, with their sleek rush of effortlessness, one major New York runway saw the return of hip-length hair: At Michael Kors, ’90s supermodel Kirsty Hume was a case study in the merits of center-parted peroxide. Not one to be outdone—even by a cadre of beach-bound Rapunzels—Nicki Minaj brought the knee-reaching trend front row, finishing off the week with a cascade of endless blonde at Marc Jacobs.
- Individuality Rules When It Comes to Dramatic Eyeliner
Eye-level statements took a customizable turn, with onyx-edged pops of pastel, gaze-framing “fingerprint” smudges, and rounded-out, glittering wings. At Marc Jacobs, makeup artist Diane Kendal took the personalization one step further, sketching unique takes on the ’60s cat-eye, according to each model’s lash line.
- It’s Time to Think Pink
While millennial pink is always welcome, Spring 2018 shows traded up for unprecedented brushings with the prettiest hue. Model Stella Lucia made a splash at Alexander Wang, having traded her blanched lengths for a “rose quartz” dye job that melded lavender and petal pink for a crystalline take on the shade. Meanwhile, a similarly off-kilter pastel hue was painted on lips at Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s show, while Brock Collection redefined the new romantic with an unexpected rimming of blush-toned shadow on lids.
- Say It With Hair Accessories
From low-slung scrunchies at Mansur Gavriel to exaggerated bows at Delpozo, hair accessories were artfully reimagined and anything but shy. Fenty x Puma found head-turning reflective highlighter accompanied by ponytails encased in winding neon twine—a feat of athletic futurism the original BadGal herself wore for her runway bow.
- Body Positivity—and Size Diversity—Is Here to Stay on the Runways
At Chromat, a high bar was set for inclusivity, with curvy silhouettes in every proportion—Jordyn Woods, Denise Bidot, and Sabina Karlsson among them—showing off the brand’s body-conscious pieces. The most notable accessory? A set of anti-chafing thigh bands, which mimicked a stocking-top while working to reduce friction (not to mention dispelling the notion of a mandatory thigh gap on the runway). And because unprecedented casting is the name of the new game, Eckhaus Latta broke the mold by sending a pregnant Maia Ruth Lee—due next month—down the runway, her baby bump on highly stylish display.
- The New Red Lip Is a Game-Changer
At Helmut Lang, a twisted sister to the classic red lip was among the week’s most thrilling beauty moments. Rather than a single shade, mouths were painted a fetishistic ombré that gave way from a ripe cherry center to merlot at the outer corners.